Tuesday, 22 May 2018

Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT) – over 800 miles from Mexico to Utah, May 2018.

I guess it is time to get caught up.  I have been very lazy about getting to writing on the blog but have gotten 4, well almost 4 more trails done since the last time I posted.  I’ll cover them in the order hiked.

5/15 –Up at 4:30 to get to the airport for 7:30 flight to Phoenix, AZ, for a hike on the Arizona National Trail.   The Harrisburg flight was on time but we had problems in Phil.  I am traveling with friend, Fred Rickter, a good hiking buddy.  The plane loaded and left the terminal only to sit in a long line waiting for takeoff.  During the wait the pilot turned off the engine to save fuel and when the pilot went to start it again it would not start so we went back to the terminal.  After that problem was fixed they discovered another, so that was taken care of then, guess what, Problem #3.  Wow!  Not feeling really good about this plane.  So we all deplaned for about 1 hour while that problem was taken care of then back on the plane for takeoff.  One has to wonder that if there were 3 problems, were there maybe 4?  Anyway we finally arrived in Phoenix picked up our rental car and drove to Flagstaff arriving at Barry and Terry Brennaman’s, late, tired and hungry.  After eating a nice dinner of taco pie went to bed with plans for the next three days hike.

5/16 – After doing some shopping for provisions we drove 33 miles north of Flagstaff to get on the AZT at Rt 417, Cedar Ranch, to hike south toward Flagstaff.  This section travels through pine, spruce, and aspen forests at a high elevation reaching 9,000’.  It skirts the west side of the San Francisco Peaks, where Mt Humphreys Peak is the tallest in AZ at 12,633’.  Our packs where pretty heavy with carrying several liters of water.  There is no water along AZT, like streams or ponds, so you have to depend on water caches and carrying a lot.  With the high elevation, time change, and not much sleep the night before I was really dragging, but did get to our planned camping spot.  Along the way we met a young lady from York, PA, who was out in AZ doing a thru hike on the AZ.  York is very close to my home in PA.

5/17 –Not much sleep again last night.  I always have trouble sleeping at high elevation and we were camped above 7,000’.  But I started the day feeling pretty good, the trail is good and well blazed with great views of the SF Peaks.  By 1:00 I was beat so I decided it would be best if I quit for a day or two to get acclimated and try to get caught up on sleep.  Terry came and picked me up and I went back to Brennaman’s for a shower and nap.  Fred and Barry hiked on.

5/18 – Fred and Barry decided to just stay out one more night and then came back to Flagstaff.  Barry had a flat tire to fix and I had to pick up a rental car so we would have two cars to drive north to hike from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to Utah.

5/19 – Drove to the Grand Canyon North Rim and waited in line for camping permits.  Rob, a friend of Barry’s, was also there with his friend Ron. The ranger, Steve, was a friend of Fred’s from when he was a volunteer at Natural Bridges NP.  So we had a bit of a homecoming week with chatting and picture taking, while others in line patiently looked on.  After all the chatting Steve discovered the computer was down so we could not get permits anyway.
We hiked around the visitor center, to Bright Angle Point and a few other short trails to enjoy the view of the canyon.  If you have never seen the Grand Canyon there is really no way to describe it and if you have, you know.

We spent the next few days hiking north through the Kaibab Plateau.  I did not keep a daily log, but found the trail well blazed and maintained.  We camped the first night with Rob and Ron and had fun exchanging stories.  Rob promised us a story that included a beer, a naked lady, and one other thing that I can’t remember, but he couldn’t get it together so promised it for the next time.  Any way we made our way north for 41 miles to Jacob Lake.  Hiking along the East Rim (I did not know there was an East Rim) and thru a large burned area.  In 2002, 50,000 acres burned.  It was a man set fire and burned so hot it is only now recovering.  Oddly it is called the “warm fire”. The aspen growth is coming along with trees 8’ to 10’ tall.  The nice thing about the burn is it opened up the view to the east to the Vermillion Cliffs.  After the burn, the trail goes back into the trees and in and out of pine forest and beautiful meadows.  The meadows are open grazing for Bison and Beefalos, but we saw neither, just cow pies and a skeleton.

It was very cold camping at night, in the low 30’s and the tents where covered with frost in the morning, but the days were great hiking weather.  When we got back to the Jacob Lake, Barry left us to head back to Flagstaff and Fred and I got ready for the next leg, a 28 mile stretch that would get us into Utah.

In the morning Fred discovered that he had lost his trekking poles and thought he may have left them at the “East Rim Lookout” parking area.  So after breakfast at the Jacob Lake CafĂ© we drove back to the parking lot and there they were.  While there we decided to hike the 3+ miles to a lookout known as the Edward Abbey lookout.  We had missed the side trail when we hiked past 2 days before.  Edward Abbey, author of “Desert Solitude” and several other books, worked there as fire spotter.  But legend has it that he spent most his time writing and missed some fires so the Forest Service closed the tower.  There is an old ramshackled cabin with some furniture and a dead porcupine in it.
After returning to Jacob Lake we drove north to cache some water along what a local called a knarly road.  We had filled our water jugs at the North Rim where water is pumped up from Roaring Spring about half way down the Kaibab Trail.  Um! Um! Good water.

Hiked 28 miles from Rt 89 to Utah.  The final major ecosystem change on the AZT occurs on this route.  The trail begins with ponderosa pine forest and descends into high desert.  I enjoyed all the blooming cacti, they were beautiful.

Rob and Ron gave us a lift from the Utah border back to our car and we then drove to the South Rim and camped 3 nights in the National Forest just outside the park and did some day hiking along the South Rim and Coconino Rim.

Great hike.

Monday, 7 May 2018

North Country, Potomac Heritage and Appalachian Trails


North Country Trail
It has been awhile since I posted anything.  So I guess it is time to get caught up.

After finishing the Natchez Trace I headed north toward Michigan to get miles on the North Country Trail.  Pete’s brother has a cabin in Manistee NF and the trail runs right past it.   Stopped in Nashville to visit The Hermitage home of Pres Andrew Jackson and of course could not pass up a visit to the Grand Ole Opera for a fun show.  Then stopped in Indianapolis Easter morning to visit Pete’s nieces and had a nice dinner with them.  Woke up the next morning to several inches of snow and freezing temps, but headed north anyway.

4/3 – Hiked Upper Creek Access to Rt 76 trailhead – distance 10+ miles – I like to keep the hike length to 10 or 12 miles.   The trailheads where easy to find and well marked and had parking.  The trail was in good shape, well blazed and maintained.  Rain was in the forecast but by late afternoon it was light snow.  That night the temperatures were in the teens and the snow got serious.  By morning there was about 6” on the ground.  The well pump at the cabin was not working so there was no water, and the propane was running low and the night temps where going to be in the teens. It was snowing hard and I do not have 4-wheel drive on the van. Also, I did not have the right hiking gear for that kind of weather.  After not too much thought we decided to head back to PA.  I will just have to work on the NCT a little later after spring arrives.

Potomac Heritage
Since the weather did not cooperate for the NCT I thought I would head south and work on the Potomac Heritage Trail.  I had planned to hike the VA east side of the Potomac, since they would be new trails for me.  Many years ago I had gone from Alexandria to Mount Vernon on a bike trail but that was over 40 years ago.  So that section seemed like a good idea.

4/8 – Headed to Occoquan, a charming little town with a lot of history.  It was a nice Sunday so lots of people on the streets.  We found parking at the trailhead by the river bridge and all looked like go for a nice hike.  Pete was going to hike north with me for a few miles then walk back and move the car 11+ miles north to Mt Vernon to meet me.  The trail starts by crossing the Occoquan River on a foot bridge and continues on, crossing Rt 123, a very busy road.  There is a pedestrian crossing light. It then goes into Occoquan Regional Park.  Most of the trail in the park was blazed but then we came to a section of the park where some construction was going on and had to wonder around looking for the trail.  After we found the trail and emerged from the woods it proceeded on the road.  Not very scenic.  After about a mile we came to very busy Rt 1 and no pedestrian crossing light.  Not sure how anyone is going to cross that road on foot.  So we turned and returned to our car.  I am not sure how this section of trail will ever be completed and it did not seem very scenic to me.

4/9 – Drove north to Great Falls NP – Beautiful park and really great falls.  Hiked the trail along the Potomac to Algonkian Regional Park, about 12 miles, this is a great section of trail.  The wild flowers where wonderful and at their peak.  Virginia Blue Bells everywhere.  When I was looking for the trailhead I ask at the visitor center and a young man told me the trail was blazed blue.  I was unable to find a blue blazed trail but did find a green one.  Not an uncommon mistake for color blind people.  After I was on the trail I found it was well blazed and maintained.  Along the way I walked by some really big houses.  That section the trail crosses private property.  Glad the property owners give permission to cross because this is really nice section of trail.

Unfortunately cold weather returned and since I camp, I again decided to head home and wait for spring.  Will it ever be spring?

4/28 – Nice weather in the forecast.  In the 60’s in the day and 50’s at night so decided to head to MD and finish up the Potomac Heritage Trail by biking on the C&O Canal.  In 2007 I rode bike from DC to Pittsburg along the C&O Canal Towpath and the Great Allegheny Passage on a   I planned to take the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad to Frostburg and ride the mostly downhill 16 miles to Cumberland, MD.  We arrived in Cumberland mid af  After eating something I took a 5 mile ride north from the campground and then came back.  This was the first time I was on my bike this year and the butt got a little sore.  The camping area is really nice right between the Potomac River and the C&O Canal Towpath.
ternoon and purchased tickets for the one way trip with bicycles to Frostburg and then went to set up camp at Fifteen Mile Creek camping area.
supported Rail-to-Trails Conservancy outing.

4/29 – Drove to Cumberland to get the 11:30 train to Frostburg.  It was windy and much colder then I planned.   When we lined up (line of 2, Pete and I) the conductor ask us if we knew it was 36 degrees and snowing in Frostburg?  Well no!  What about that weather forecast of in the 60’s?  After some thought we decided we had warm enough clothes and we would go for it.  After having some lunch in Frostburg we started our downhill trip.  It was not as bad as I thought it would be and we past several other people on bikes riding uphill.

4/30 – The mouth of the Fifteen Mile Creek, where we were camping, is so called because it is 15 miles west of Hancock, MD, so I decided to ride my bike to Hancock.  The weather was nice, after a night in the low 30’s.  The trail was lined with Virginia Blue Bells and nice views of the Potomac.  At mile post 127.4 near Hancock the limestone kilns of the Round Top Cement Mill are visible and about 200 yards east a rock formation called the Devils Eyebrow.  There are 74 lift locks along the canal to adjust water levels for a 605’ difference in elevation between the western terminus and the tidewater in the east. 
Digging was started in 1828 and finished 22 years later.  The canal averaged 40 to 60 feet wide and 6’ deep.  Loss of business to railroads, floods, dry weather and freezing caused the C&O Canal to close in 1924. The C&O canal was proclaimed a National Monument in 1961.

So with a very sore butt, I rode into Hancock and completed my miles on the Potomac Heritage Trail. 

Three trails done.

Appalachian Trail
I have been working on the AT around home, here in PA, and have hiked from Pine Grove Furnace SP to Rt 850 on various days.

4/19 – In a fine mist and off and on rain I hiked Pine Grove Furnace SP to Rt 34

4/22 – On a beautiful sunny day hiked Boiling Springs to Scott Farm AT work center.

4/24 – A somewhat cloudy day with some rain in the forecast hiked Rt 850 to Scott Farm.

4/27 – Another beautiful day in central PA – Hiked Rt 34 to Boiling Springs.

I have been seeing thru hikers but mainly flip floppers.  One family of father and three sonsvwho had started in Front Royal. Also met a young man who had started in GA.  He had also hiked last year and was the first one to reach ME in 2017.  I plan on finishing my AT miles tomorrow with a hike from Shippensburg Rd to Pine Grove Furnace SP with the Roads Scholars.  Every month, May thru Oct, Roads Scholars organizes a four state AT hike.  WV, VA, MD, and PA.  The hike in PA finishes at the AT Museum and several volunteers from the museum go along as guides.  It is always a fun hike with them and answering questions about thru hiking the trail.  Tomorrow, May 7, will be the first of the season.

We hikers do like to go on and on and on about hiking. Last year a fellow AT hiker’s wife gave him a t-shirt that said “Warning – May start talking about Hiking”.  This seems to be a problem with us hikers.  Every time there are 2 or more of us together the conversation is; Hike, Hike, Hike.
Every year the AT Museum has a recognition dinner and inducts several candidates into the AT Hall of Fame in recognition of outstanding contribution to the AT.  It is held at Allenberry Resort along the Yellow Breeches Creek and close to the town of Boiling Springs where the ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional office is located.  Needless to say there is lots of trail talk at that function.  I was very happy that “Gray Beard”, who, last year at the age of 82, became the oldest person to complete the AT in one year, was there.   I was very excited to meet him and he said he felt the same about me, the oldest woman.  He is a very lively fellow and we had a lot of fun comparing stories. 

Since I am hiking tomorrow, I can just count on the AT as being finished.  4 down 7 to go.

I will be leaving May 15 to hike the Arizona Trail so will be reporting on that after I return May 31.