Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail

3-21 – After stopping off in Slidell, LA to visit with my Grandson we made our way up to the Trace.  There are 67 miles of Scenic Trail which follows the parkway.   The original foot path was 450+ miles and connected Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee.  The Natchez Trace was used for thousands of years by Native Americans; Choctaw, Chickasaw, Natchez and others, who followed a network of north/south trails, but in the late 1700s, it gained new importance to settlers of the Ohio River Valley.   The farmers would transport their goods down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers on wooden flatboats to the ports in Natchez and New Orleans where they sold the farm goods, then by foot and horseback they made their way home on the trails made by the Native Americans.  In 1801 Pres Thomas Jefferson designated the Trace a national post road for mail delivery.  The Natchez Trace was established as a unit of the National Park System in 1938 and in 1983 the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail was established.  There are 5 sections of hiking trail designated as National Scenic Trail, along with many miles of other trails, including some areas where the original Old Trace can be walked.   The NST may also be used by horses, and is never far from the Parkway highway.  The average width of the Parkway corridor is 800’.  The NST often comes up onto the Parkway and it is necessary to walk along the road although there is not heavy traffic it does take away from the experience.  The trail is also open for equestrian use so it can be very chewed up at places.

Before we got to the camping area we stopped at Emerald Mound, an 8 acre ceremonial mound built between 1200 and 1650.  When I got out of my car who should be there but Ron Burger, my fellow ALDHI hiker.  He had just completed riding his bike the full 444 miles of the Trace and was on his way home.  Ron said he rode into a head wind almost every day.

There are three camping areas on the Trace operated by the National Park Service.  They are free on a first come basis.  We set up camp at Rocky Springs Campground and set out to hike the 3 ½ miles to Owens Creek Waterfall.  The beginning of the hike is on the old Trace which is very deep at places, over 6 feet.  That part of the trail was easy to follow, but then the trail leaves the old trace and wanders through the woods.  It was not maintained or blazed except by some orange streamers someone had hung on the trees.  So we were able to make it to the falls and back following the orange streamers with not much of a path to follow.  The next day I hiked the 4 miles going from the north into Rocky Springs camping area.

There were many snowbirds camped around us, most from Canada.  The ones we talked to said they drive the Trace every year going south to winter in Texas and then north home, camping at the three free campgrounds.

3-23 – Pete dropped me somewhere around milepost 120 along Ross R Barnett Reservoir.  I planned to hike 10 miles south to West Florida Boundary, which used to run from the confluence of the Yazoo and Mississippi rivers to the Chattahoochee River.  The trail was horrible with many downed trees to climb over and large areas of muck to wade through.  Sometimes I would lose the trail completely and have to come out and walk along the road for a while then go back looking for the trail.  When I came out at Rt 43 I saw a sign that said “trail unmaintained proceed at your own risk”.  Dah!  After Rt 43 it was maintained and a very pleasant hike although I did not make it to my goal.  By then I was too tired and hungry so I walked out to the parkway and called Pete to come pick me up.  After a shower, beef fajitas, and a margarita I was feeling much better.

3-24 – Tried to hike the rest of the West Fl Boundary to Yockanookany, but had to do a lot of road walking due to swampy unmaintained trail.  Camped at Jeff Busby camping area another of the NPS free campgrounds.  From the campground there is a hiking trail up to one of Mississippi’s highest points, 603'.

3-25 – Hiked the Blackland Prairie section of the trail.  This is a 6 mile section close to Tupelo and is a popular trail for residents and visitors alike.  It had many braided trails and several marked NST.  I tried to follow the one with the most hoof prints, but was never sure if I was on the trail or on the way to someone’s barn.

3-26 – Camping at Meriwether Lewis campground.  Number 3 of the free NP campgrounds.  We have been seeing several of the same people on their way back to Canada at all 3 camp areas.  I  hiked 8 miles today on the Highland Rim section.  The trail was well blazed and pretty easy to follow.  Pretty rough at spots from the horse traffic.  Tomorrow heavy rain is predicted.  Hope to get in a few more miles before it starts raining and before heading to Michigan and the North Country Trail.

3-27 – I was able to finish the Highland Rim section of the NST hiking in a fine mist off and on most of the day.  This section is well maintained and blazed with a lot of ups and downs and several stream crossings.  The ups and downs reminded me of the “roller coaster” on the AT in VA.  The last 2+ miles of the trail are on the old trace which makes it a great way to finish.  I could think about the early travelers getting home after their long trip down the river and the long walk home.  Since the Natchez Trace was not conceived as a recreational trail but a true trail for travel it made it a more meaningful experience for me to hike.  Two down and nine to go.

Completing the Florida National Scenic Trail

3-6 – Paddled today on the Black Water Creek out to Lake Norris at the Lake Norris Conservation Area.  The creek is aptly named because the water was very black.  Nice narrow creek with shores lined with cypress knees.  On the lake we saw Osprey and a large white egret rookery.  This was a short paddle because we spent time early in the day looking for internet service so everyone could get some business done.

3-7 – Moving day.  Went from Alexander Springs campground to Hog Island in Florida State Forest.  On the way resupplied and stopped at the Villages to visit a friend who has relocated from PA to FL.  If you are not familiar with the Villages it is a super, I mean SUPER big over 55 community.  It is really crazy with golf carts zipping all around and over  55ers staying active.

3-8 – We were joined today with fellow PA’ers Dave and Maria Walborn who are on their first FL canoeing adventure.  I have been coming down in the spring to paddle for about 12 years.  We paddled the Weeki  Wachee spring and river.  We saw about 8 manatees.  They look so funny when they surface to breath.   Manatee can remain under water for up to 20 minutes but seem to surface every 4 or 5.  Sometimes they come up under a canoe and spill the paddlers.  They look so funny when they surface; just their nostrils surface and they blow out and inhale.  It is hard to believe that the legend of the mermaid came from sailors who saw manatee.  Really too long at sea.

3-9 – Hiking day on the Florida Trail.  Started at Rt 581 near Inverness to Rt 580 – 15+ miles.  I wanted to hike this section in the Withlacoochee SF, because it is known for its abundant wildlife and challenging hikes.  According to the write up this is where Floridians train for the AT.  Well there was not much wild life excluding Freckles and me but there were some hills.  Actual hills, I think Freckles said her Fit Bit gave her 50 flights of steps.  I am not really sure how much training you would get from that for, say, the White Mts in NH, but I guess the flatlanders have to take what they can.  I saw a lot of trees banded with white, which I understand marks the nesting spots of the Red–cockaded woodpeckers.  The Sibley field guide says they are rare and local.  Only found in mature longleaf pine savannas which exist in managed forest.  We did not see or hear any.  In fact I have not been seeing many birds at all. Maybe it has been to cold.  The night temps are down in the 30’s and 40’s so maybe that has something to do with it.

3-10 – Paddled the Withlacoochee River.  Had dinner at River Ratz Café and Grill which we had paddled by on the river.

3-11 – Moved to O’Leno SP today.  Usual laundry and shopping along the way.  Pete O visited the Don Garlits Museum of Drag Racing while I did the shopping.  Nice camp ground but I liked Hog Island better due to more remote and bigger sites.

3-12 – O’Leno is on the Santa Fe River and is one of Florida’s first state parks.  The distinctive geological feature of the park is the River Sink where the Santa Fe River disappears underground and re-emerges three miles south.   The natural bridge between the sink and the rise provided easy passage over the Santa Fe River and the first federally funded road connecting St Augustine and Pensacola used the crossing.  Leno was once a town but in 1896 the railroad by passed the town, causing the town to disappear like the river, but Leno did not rise again.  We hiked the 9 miles from the campground along the river past the sink and the rise.

3-13 – Hiked the final miles needed for my 50 miles of Florida Trail from Rt 90, Olustee Battlefield, to Rt 250 Turkey Run Trail head, which is a little over 10 miles.  Once again the hiking was easy.  The trail well maintained and blazed.  Saw no other hikers and no wild life and few birds.  This section was in the Osceola NF and had some swampy areas near Big Gum Swamp and areas with more diverse trees.  There was a shelter on this section of trail.  The first I saw on the Florida Trail but not much water that I would have liked to consume.  I only saw one spring along the trail sections that I hiked and one area where bottles of water had been put out for the hikers.  I wonder how much of a problem fresh drinking water is for thru hikers.  There is plenty of water but it really does not look appetizing.

3-14 – Really cold last night and only got up into the 60’s today.  Did a short section of the Ichetucknee River.  Great clear spring with nice vegetation and lots of fish visible in the clear water.  Saw four manatees but once again not many birds.  Where have all the birds gone?

The Florida Trail - Alexander Springs to Buck Lake

2/28/2018 – Arrived at Alexander Springs Rec Area, in Ocala National Park.  Plan to do some canoeing and hiking while here for the next 7 days.  67 miles of the Florida National Scenic Trail runs through Ocala NF, which is known as the heart of the FT.  The Florida Trail Assoc was founded by James Kerns, who envisioned a long distance hiking trail in FL while hiking the AT in the early ‘60s.  With the help of volunteers the first orange blaze was painted in Ocala NF in 1966.  The FT was officially recognized as a NST in 1983 and now is over 1,300 miles.

3/1 – Hiked the ½ mile connector trail from the campground to the FT than hiked 4miles north/west to a little past RT 19.  It felt good to be out on the trail after several days in a car getting here.  Pete O hiked with me.  The trail was will blazed and showed signs of maintaince, newly cleared trees and evidence of   pruning. There are signs all around about this being bear country, but no sign of bear.

3/2 – Was joined yesterday with the Banjaks.  Carolyn aka Freckles, was my hiking companion in 2014 for my AT thru hike.  Today with paddled the Alexander River starting at the spring in the Rec Area.  The river has a lot of vegetation so it was fun working our way thru little channels of clear water.  Only had to back up once out of a dead end.  Not many birds and only 3 gators.  Lots of turtles sitting on logs sunning themselves.  Freckles found an I phone, in a waterproof case, lying on the bottom of the river.  It still worked and Pete O was able to open some email and get in touch with the owner, so we were able to mail it back to him.

3/3 – Today was a hiking day.  After being dropped at Rt 42, Freckles and I hiked the 10+ miles north back to our camping area at Alexander Springs.  There was a large area that had been burned off and some hot spots still remained.  Some smoke and a few flames, but there were plenty of nice pine and palmetto forests.  While taking a break at a beautiful little spring Bookworm came along.  We had met him yesterday at the Alexander River Canoe takeout.  He is backpacking a section of the FT and had bushwhacked a mile plus to get to the swimming hole on the river.  When he got there he found the area full of trash, so after getting some big black trash bags from some folks at the parking lot he was taking a zero day to pick up trash.  He had gathered 4 huge bags full and there was still more.  I hope someone with a pickup truck was good enough to haul it out.  The amount of trash along the roads has been very depressing.  I can’t figure out what is wrong with people who just throw things out the window.

3/4 – Sunday – Some friends of Banjaks had joined us last night for camping and a cookout.  They live in St Augustine, FL and wanted to paddle the Silver Springs with us.  Silver Springs has a large Regis monkey population.  I have heard two stories on how they got there.  One they are left over from when the jungle area was used to make a Tarzan movie and the other story is that there was a tourist attraction that had monkeys and they had escaped.  I like the Tarzan story.  We paddled around the spring and river and saw lots of monkeys.  A few very young ones, with their mothers, who were quick to lets us know if we were to close.  The whole park at Siver Springs was crowded with kayaks and glass bottom boats.  Guess that is to be expected on a Sunday.

3/5 – Monday – Hike day.  We dropped a vehicle at Rt 19 and then drove to Juniper Springs SP to begin our hike.  I had figured the hike would be about 10 miles so Pete O decided to join Freckles and I for this section.  Very nice hike through dense forest and Farles prairie and some nice lakes.  We met up with Bookworm again, still hiking.  When we stopped by Buck Lake we learned that camping is no longer allowed around the lake.  The men we were talking to said they closed it for camping because of the “Rainbow” people.  The story is that there is a large group of “Grateful Dead” living in the Ocala NF.  I have seen no sign of them so not sure if this is urban legend or a fact.  It is a very large area so who knows what or who can be living there.  The hike turned out to be 14+ miles so we were pretty tired at the end.   I haven’t been doing enough hiking for that much mileage and guess what.  There was a hill.  I didn’t think there were any hills in FL.  I now have completed 26 miles on the Florida National Scenic Trail.  We will be moving to a camping area further west for a few days where I plan to hike the FT in the Withlacoochee SF.  This area is known for more challenging hikes.   Florida hikers go there to train for the AT.

INTRODUCTION

Hi! Drag’n fly here - getting ready for another hiking adventure.  In October, while attending the ALDHA (Appalachian Long Distant Hiker Assoc) gathering in VA, the idea was presented by Ron Burger to do something to celebrate the 50^th anniversary of President Johnson signing the “National Trails System Act”.  There are 11 National Scenic Trails.   The initial hike plan was to have 11 teams made up of five ALDHA members.  Each team member would hike 50 miles on their team’s trail for a total of 250 miles per trail.  Doing this to celebrate the 50^th anniversary and bring attention to the trails. Well, being the eager beaver I am, I thought why not me, Drag’n fly, hiking 50 miles on all 11 trails.  That’s only 550 miles.  Piece of cake.

If you don’t know me here is a little bit about me.  I am a 77 year old woman who likes to hike and backpack.  Didn’t start backpacking until I was in my mid 60’s but fell in love with the adventure, challenge, and concept of having everything you need on your back.  Life is so simple; eat, sleep, walk.  No worries.  I don’t understand people who say they would not like sleeping in a tent or on the ground or not being able to get a hot shower every night.  Gee that hot shower every night really does limit you.  I recently saw a pair of children’s PJ that had a picture of a bear on it with the words “I Sleep Better in the Forest”.  Well put.

I have been hiking and camping all my adult life, for family vacations and other outings, and since I lived in PA or VA, close to the Appalachian Trail, (here after just called the AT), I naturally always thought about what fun it would be to hike the whole trail, GA to ME.  Every time I saw a hiker with a pack at a road crossing or on the trail I would day dream about doing that someday.   In 2006, under the impression I was too old for a thru hike (a “Thru Hike” is hiking all 2,200 + or - miles in one calendar year) I decided to hike the AT in sections.  The goal was to finishing at the northern terminus, Mt Katahdin, in Baxter SP, ME, by my 70^th birthday.  I was on Katahdin several days after my birthday but still had 86 miles of trail not hiked.  I finished those miles the next year and really felt I had, as they say, “been there, done that”.

In 2013 when meeting my friend Freckles in WV at the AT Headquarters in preparation for a 4 day hike, she asked how old the oldest woman to do a thru hike was.  The answer was 71.  “Gee” she said, “you could beat that”.  So the challenge was made and with Freckles as my hiking partner on March 30, 2014 we set out from Springer Mtn. in GA headed for ME.  Long story short I finished Oct 4, at 74 years of age, making me the oldest woman to hike the entire AT in one season.  As far as I know that record still stands. Of course, to be perfectly honest, there are not a lot of 75 year old women who want to spend 6 months hiking and sleeping in the woods.

I have continued to hike in the years since, working on the Pacific Crest Trail in WA, OR, and CA and hiking other favorite and new trails. I am looking forward to this new adventure.

I plan to start with the Florida National Scenic Trail the beginning of March, hiking 50 miles and moving on to the Natchez Trace, The North Country, The New England and The Potomac Heritage Trails hiking 50 miles on each.  Hope to have those five along with 50 miles on the Appalachian Trail done by the end of May then I will head to AZ to hike 50 miles on the Arizona National Scenic Trail.  That will leave the Continental  Divide, Ice Age, Pacific Crest, and Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trails.  The goal is to be finished by Aug 30.  Wow, will I be busy.  I might add I am not the only ALDHA member who will attempt to hike 50 on all 11.  Ron Burger has also put his name on all 11 teams.

So follow me on my big adventure.  I will be posting to this blog with comments and pictures to keep you updated.  If you want more information on the National Scenic Trails it is available at https://www.nps.gov/subjects/nationaltrailssystem/index.htm.

For more information on ALDHA check www.aldha.org

Signing out,  Nan Reisinger aka Drag’n fly